Today's sojourn took me
from Albany to-o Bu-ufa-lo-oh!:

Not really, although I did travel roughly along the route of the Erie Canal for about an hour and a half. I also travelled through about every type of weather short of snow. Fortunately, the points at which I had to actually be outside were all dry, and I made it into the archive all safe and dry.
When I got to the archive, the archivist told me that all of their Douglass letters are online. Trust me, I'm aware of that and LOVE it! However, I want to find letters that talk about him, around him, or about his family. I'm looking for context, which will not necessarily be in the correspondence that directly includes him. The archivist looked at me dubiously. "Well, good luck," she said in that way that says you are on a fool's mission.
I started in the correspondence much earlier than I expected to find references to Douglass, partly on the off-chance that I find that smoking -- or maybe just warm -- gun in a letter that says, "oh, yeah, and there is this fresh young guy, Douglass, that we have to see." Of course, I haven't found it (yet!), but I have discovered that these women are way more chatty in these letters than any of those in the collection that I was in yesterday. Seriously, you could reconstruct whole Friends' Meetings on any given Sunday just through these letters, including who was ill, and with what symptoms, and what they read during the week.
The research through these documents should have gone much faster, except I became enchanted by a set of letters from Jeremiah B. Sanderson, a black barber and abolitionist in New Bedford, and William C. Nell, a black abolitionist in Boston. What these letters are doing in this particular collection, tucked in with all of the news of extended family illnesses and deaths and church going, is beyond me, since neither Sanderson nor Nell were related to this family.
Still, Sanderson had me completely charmed. His writing has editorial interjections with such expressions as "ha! ha!" and "humph!" Really! For instance, he writes to Nell, "Dad & Mamy Hogan (as we used to call them when in Boston ) I am told are coming down tomorrow for the purpose of seeing their children," but adds, "(ha! ha! if they’d wait a little longer I might say and their children’s children* -- cut off the *-ren – and to rectify my mistake – ahem! presumptive evidence of this is (so I reckon) pretty strong)."
He also writes another letter bemoaning all of the weddings that he must attend. He describes one between a Mr. Morton and Miss Ruth Williams, writing, "She’s quite a small body so that he being somewhere in the neighborhood of six foot six can sincerely be said to have taken a better half." Then he goes on to say that he has "long entertained a favorable opionion of Matrimony" and that he sees the best marriages as being founded on friendship. "Oh! the sympathy of affections of friendship," he writes, "who -- that has felt it – cannot witness its soothing influence--- like as dew to the drooping, wilting flower –having the effect to resuscitate--" He then hinted to Nell, "think you i could effect any thing in that way in Boston -- ahem!"
Sanderson became a fairly important figure in the New Bedford abolitionist movement, and a friend of Frederick Douglass. Incidentally, one of his letters had the first mention in passing of Douglass. Sanderson also moved to Sacramento, California, in 1850. There he became an AME minister and a school teacher. Yet, I wondered, did he ever find that special friend with whom he could "enjoy the Society of those we love, and by whom we are loved"?
Yes, he did. Her name was Catherine. She was one of a family of fugitive slaves who escaped from their master while he was in Newport, and moved to New Bedford. They had six children.
Alas, the library closed and I had to leave. Before I set out for the outskirts of the city to find a cheap (and, trust me, it is cheap) motel, I noticed that a cemetery shared a property line with the archives. I know this cemetery, although I haven't been there in nearly a decade. I drove over there, parked my car, and continued my pilgrimage on foot.
No sooner had I set foot out of my car than I saw this:
Yeah. Small pine boxes. When you see that in a cemetery, you get a little worried. "Walk on, Clio. Walk on," I told myself.
I did, but in the wrong direction. I went toward the boxes. Here is what I found:

Not coffins, right? I mean, after all, they are modern boards, without any stains of embalming fluid or rotting corpses, or even any bottoms. What they are, I have no idea, but they didn't contain the tiny skeletons that I first imagined.*
Further down the path, I found this:
It looks rather like the dirt of a grave is sifting out. Yes, again, I know that the slab is not a grave, and that the graves go in the other direction. Still.
Ah, but here is the object of our pilgrimage (as if you didn't know):

Just down this way:

And this way:
Here it is:

This is the Great Man's grave (the flowers were already there):
This is the monument that Lewis and Charles Douglass commissioned to honor the Douglass family, specifically their mother, Anna, and their baby sister, Annie.
This is the side dedicated to Anna:
This is the side dedicated to Annie, who died when she was 10. Frederick Douglass was hiding out in England in the wake of the John Brown raid, and hurried home when he learned of her death. The entire family was distraught.
Annie was not buried in this plot and the location of her grave was forgotten until a local historian discovered its record about five or six years ago. Annie's body lies in the Porter family plot (which I haven't found, but if you scroll up to the tiny "coffin" picture, you will see a vault in the background. That vault is labeled "Porter." I just don't know if it is the Porters, yet.)
This is Helen Pitts Douglass's grave:
Helen wanted to be buried in Anacostia, D.C., on the grounds of Cedar Hill, and to have Frederick's body moved there, as well. That ended up being impractical. Also, I imagine the children had an issue with that, since their mother is buried here. To have their father's body moved to be with his newer, white wife, while leaving behind the body of his first, black wife and their mother, was not a politic move on Helen's part.
Still, you can see the family politics in the layout of the grave site:
Frederick lies there in the center. Anna's body probably lies to his left, but her monument, placed by her sons, rises above the whole plot, at the head of and between Frederick's and presumably Anna's graves. Helen's stone, the wordiest of the three, lies to the right of Douglass, as if tacked on to the site.
A peephole to Frederick's coffin, thanks to a chipmunk:
No, I did not look!
I stood at the foot of the Douglass graves and contemplated the skeletons lying six feet below me. I remember that this is the Burned-Over District, that this is the district in which Spiritualism thrived, including in homes not too far from this very spot. I don't believe in all that, but just in case, I asked them to forgive me for any inaccuracies that I write. Also, please don't haunt me.
*Yeah, I know the thousands of scientific things wrong with that imagining, but it was an imagining made in a split second upon seeing little, coffin-shaped boxes in a graveyard.